化妝品在行銷時,會用上許多字眼,很可能大家就已經看得眼花撩亂了。
而化妝品研發人員,在面對商品開發以及打樣時,遇到這些字眼,更是有理說不清。
更痛苦的是,當好幾個英文字翻譯起來時都是同樣中文意思時,但其實每個英文單字卻又有著些微差異,那可能要用一整句的中文才能解釋出來。
但,這根本是不可能的。
也正是因為如此,才會想說在慢慢整理各個原料,以及其相關安全性資料前,先對化妝品原料成分的「分類」先進行個定義。
目前看下來,覺得直接使用CosIng這個歐盟的化妝品原料資料庫的分類就好,因為之後在整理原料時可能也會以這資料庫為主,這樣是最好銜接的。
接著,就是進行翻譯。
翻譯當然是以個人對化妝品以及那些原料的特性進行翻譯,但難免總有翻不好的地方,還望大家多見諒。
此外,也可以提出好的建議,可以使用更好的方式去翻譯及解釋各個專有名詞。
下面,就是整理的表格。
出處:CosIng的《List of Functions》
抗脂漏 ANTI-SEBORRHEIC |
預防或緩解脂漏性症狀和(或)脂漏性皮膚炎,包括頭皮屑。 Preventing or relieving the symptoms of seborrhea and/or seborrheic dermatitis, including dandruff. |
抗皮脂 ANTI-SEBUM |
協助控制皮脂分泌。 Helping control sebum production. |
防結塊 ANTICAKING |
防止固體顆粒團聚成塊或硬塊(內聚團塊),而使得顆粒可以自由流動。 Preventing agglomeration of particulate solids into lumps or hard masses (cohesive cake), thus allowing free flow of particles. |
防鏽蝕 ANTICORROSIVE |
防止和(或)抑制包裝材料的鏽蝕。 Preventing and or inhibiting the corrosion of the packaging material. |
消泡劑 ANTIFOAMING |
降低製造過程中產生的泡沫或減少成品中產生的泡沫。 Suppressing foam during manufacturing or reducing the tendency of finished products to generate foam. |
抑菌 ANTIMICROBIAL |
預防和(或)降低微生物生長的速度 Preventing and/or slowing down microbial growth. |
抗氧化劑 ANTIOXIDANT |
抑制氧所促進的反應,進而避免氧化和酸敗。 Inhibiting reactions promoted by oxygen, thus avoiding oxidation and rancidity. |
止汗劑 ANTIPERSPIRANT |
減少汗水。 Reducing perspiration. |
抗牙菌斑 ANTIPLAQUE |
幫助防止牙菌斑。 Helping protect against plaque. |
抗靜電 ANTISTATIC |
透過中和表面上的電荷來防止和(或)減少靜電。 Preventing and/or reducing static electricity by neutralising electrical charge on surfaces. |
收斂劑 ASTRINGENT |
收縮和(或)緊縮皮膚。 Contracting and/or tightening the skin. |
接著劑 BINDING |
於壓製成片狀或餅狀化妝品時,提供黏著性。 Providing adhesive properties during and after compression in cosmetic tablets and/or cakes. |
漂白劑 BLEACHING |
漂白或淡化頭髮和(或)皮膚的顏色。 Bleaching or lightening the shade of hair and/or skin. |
緩衝劑 BUFFERING |
於添加酸或鹼的情況下,依舊能將水溶液的pH值穩定在一個較窄的範圍內。並能改變和(或)維持化妝品產品的pH值在希望的範圍內。 Stabilising the pH of an aqueous medium in a narrow range even if an acid or base is added. Altering and/or maintaining a cosmetic product's pH at the desired level. |
膨脹劑 BULKING |
可稀釋其他固體或(和)增加化妝品產品體積的非活性(化學惰性)的固體成分。 Non-reactive (chemically inert), solid ingredients that dilute other solids and/or increase the volume of cosmetic products. |
螯合劑 CHELATING |
和可能影響化妝品穩定性和(或)外觀的金屬離子形成化合物。 Forming complexes with metal ions which could affect the stability and/or appearance of cosmetics. |
清潔劑 CLEANSING |
幫助身體表面維持潔淨。 Helping to keep the body surface clean. |
著色劑 COLORANT |
專門或主要使化妝品產品有顏色的成分,為透過吸收或反射可見光的方式達到。產品包括全身性或局部使用。氧化性染髮劑的前體也應視為著色劑。所有允許使用的著色劑皆被正面表列於《化妝品法規》第1223/2009號的附件四之中。 Exclusively or mainly intended to colour the cosmetic product, the body as a whole or certain parts thereof, by absorption or reflection of visible light; (precursors of oxidative hair colorants shall be deemed colorants). All authorised colorants are substances in the positive list of Annex IV to the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. |
變性劑 DENATURANT |
使化妝品的味道變差。通常是加入加入乙醇讓化妝品不適合被食入。 Rendering cosmetics unpalatable. Mostly added to cosmetics containing ethyl alcohol to make it unsuitable for ingestion. |
除臭劑 DEODORANT |
減少和(或)消除難聞氣味。有助於防止身體表面形成惡臭。 Reducing and/or eluminating unpleasant odour. Contributing against the formation of malodour on body surfaces. |
脫毛劑 DEPILATORY |
破壞毛髮纖維的機械強度,從而可透過溫和的刮/擦來去除。 Breaking down the mechanical strength of hair fibers so that they can be removed by mild scraping/rubbing. |
抗糾結劑 DETANGLING |
減少或消除因頭髮表面變化或損傷而導致的纏繞,進而使其好梳理。 Reducing or eliminating hair intertwining due to hair surface alteration or damage and, thus, helping combing. |
助分散型非界面活性劑 DISPERSING NON-SURFACTANT |
使固體易分散於液體中。其主要是透過吸附於固體表面的方式,進而改變懸浮固體的表面性質。 Facilitating the dispersion of solids in liquids. They function primarily by coating the solid through the process of adsorption, thus changing the surface characteristic of the suspended solid. |
乳化穩定劑 EMULSION STABILISING |
幫助乳化過程,並促進乳化體穩定及延長有效期限。 Helping the process of emulsification and improving emulsion stability and shelf-life. |
除毛劑 EPILATING |
塗抹於皮膚上,並迅速剝離以去除毛髮。除毛為將整個毛髮從毛囊中移除;而脫毛僅將毛髮從皮膚表面去除。 Applied to the skin, and stripped off quickly to remove hair. With epilation the entire hair is removed from the follicle, whereas with depilation the hair is removed only to the surface of the skin. |
去角質劑 EXFOLIATING |
啟動和(或)加速去除皮膚表面的死細胞層。 Initiating and/or accelerating removal of the layers of dead skin cells from the skin surface. |
睫毛調理 EYELASH CONDITIONING |
調理和增強睫毛的外觀。改善睫毛的色澤或光澤,塗抹上睫毛以增加其外觀的粗度與長度,或幫助睫毛分離。 Conditioning and enhancing the appearance of eyelashes. Improving the gloss or sheen of eyelashes, coating the eyelash hair to increase the appearance of its diameter and length, or helping with the separation of the eyelash hair. |
成膜劑 FILM FORMING |
使用於皮膚、頭髮或指甲上產生連續性地薄膜。 Producing (upon application) a continuous film on the skin, hair or nails. |
調味劑 FLAVOURING |
賦予化妝品產品味道和(或)風味。 Imparting taste and/or flavour to a cosmetic product. |
起泡劑 FOAMING |
通過修改液體的表面張力,使少量液體可以捕捉大量的空氣或其它氣體小泡。 Traping numerous small bubbles of air or other gas within a small volume of liquid by modifying the surface tension of the liquid. |
香精 FRAGRANCE |
賦予氣味或味道。產生明顯地令人愉悅的氣味和(或)掩蓋臭味。 Imparting an odour or taste. Creating a perceivable pleasant smell and/or masking a bad smell. |
凝膠形成劑 GEL FORMING |
使膠體(有些許黏度的半固體劑)和液劑有相同稠度。 Giving the consistency of a gel (a semi-solid preparation with some elasticity) to a liquid preparation. |
頭髮調理劑 HAIR CONDITIONING |
增進頭髮的外觀與觸感。使頭髮易於梳理、有彈性、柔軟且有光澤和(或)賦予體積、亮度、光澤、質感等。 Enhancing the appearance and feel of hair. Leaving the hair easy to comb, supple, soft and shiny and/or imparting volume, lightness, gloss, texture, etc. |
染髮劑 HAIR DYEING |
賦予頭髮顏色。染髮劑可能為暫時性、半永久性、永久性,取決於顏色停留於頭髮上的時間長短。 Imparting color to hair. Hair dyeing preparations may be temporary, semi-permanent, permanent, depending on the length of time the colorant remains on the hair. |
頭髮定型 HAIR FIXING |
可物理性地控制頭髮造型。 Permitting physical control of hair style. |
頭髮捲曲或拉直 HAIR WAVING OR STRAIGHTENING |
修改頭髮的化學結狗,使其可改變造型(永久性捲曲或拉直)。 Modifying the chemical structure of the hair, allowing it to be set in the style required (permanent waves or hair straightening). |
濕潤劑 HUMECTANT |
於使用產品時,保留或保持產品中的水分。 Retaining and/or preserving the moisture in a product during use. |
角蛋白溶解劑 KERATOLYTIC |
幫助去除角質層的死細胞。 Helping to eliminate the dead cells of the stratum corneum. |
光穩定劑 LIGHT STABILIZER |
保護化妝品產品因光的影響而變質。 Protecting the cosmetic product from deterioration effects of light. |
裂解劑 LYTIC |
幫助脂質、蛋白質和多醣分解成較小的組成,通常透過酶的作用來達成。 Helping to break down lipids, proteins, and polysaccharides into smaller components, usually by the action of enzymes. |
保濕劑 MOISTURISING |
增加皮膚的含水量並使其維持柔軟光滑。 Increasing the water content of the skin and keeping it soft and smooth. |
指甲調理劑 NAIL CONDITIONING |
改善和(或)增強指甲美容的特性,例如:保濕、增加光澤、降低脆裂和剝落等。 Improving and/or enhancing the cosmetic characteristics of the nail (moisturizing, increasing sheen, reducing brittleness and flaking, etc.). |
指甲造型 NAIL SCULPTING |
形成類似指甲的堅硬結構。 Forming a hard structure that resembles the nail plate. |
未分類 NOT REPORTED |
目前未有可知的效果。 No function currently reported |
閉鎖劑 OCCLUSIVE |
預防和(或)減緩皮膚表面的水分蒸散。 Preventing and/or slowing down the evaporation of water from the skin surface. |
起雲劑 OPACIFYING |
降低化妝品的透明度或半透明度。 Reducing transparency or translucency of cosmetics. |
口腔護理 ORAL CARE |
為口腔提供美容效果,例如:清潔、除臭、保護。 Providing cosmetic effects to the oral cavity, e.g. cleansing, deodorising, protecting. |
氧化劑 OXIDISING |
通過添加氧(或除去氫)來改變另一種成分的化學性質。 Changing the chemical nature of another ingredient by adding oxygen (or removing hydrogen). |
珠光劑 PEARLESCENT |
賦予化妝品珍珠光澤。 Imparting a nacreous appearance to cosmetics. |
香水 PERFUMING |
使用於香水或芳香原物料。 Used for perfume and aromatic raw materials. |
pH調節劑 pH ADJUSTERS |
控制化妝品產品的pH值。 Controlling the pH of cosmetic products. |
塑形劑 PLASTICISER |
使合成聚合物軟化、柔軟,否則將不易於變形、散佈或加工。 Softening and making supple synthetic polumers that otherwise could not be easily deformed, spread or worked out. |
防腐劑 PRESERVATIVE |
專門或主要指可抑制化妝品產品中微生物生長的成分。所有允許使用的物質皆被正面表列於《化妝品法規》第1223/2009號的附件五之中。 Exclusively or mainly intended to inhibit the development of micro-organisms in the cosmetic product. All authorised preservatives are substances in the positive list of Annex V to the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. |
推進劑 PROPELLANT |
使氣霧瓶中產生壓力,並於打開閥門時將內容物推出。某些液態的推進劑可同時作為溶劑。 Generating pressure in an aerosol pack, expelling contents when the valve is opened. Some liquefied propellants can act as solvents. |
還原劑 REDUCING |
通過添加氫(或除去氧)來改變另一種成分的化學性質。 Changing the chemical nature of another ingredient by adding hydrogen (or removing oxygen). |
脂質補充 REFATTING |
補充頭髮或頭頂的脂質。 Replenishing the lipids of the hair or of the top layers of the skin. |
皮膚調理劑 SKIN CONDITIONING |
保持皮膚狀況良好。 Maintaining the skin in good condition. |
皮膚調理劑-潤膚 SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT |
用於皮膚表面作為潤滑劑,並提供皮膚柔軟和光滑的外觀。 Acting as lubricants on the skin surface providing the skin with a soft and smooth appearance. |
皮膚調理劑-濕潤劑 SKIN CONDITIONING - HUMECTANT |
增加皮膚頂層的含水量。濕潤劑主要是吸濕劑,可從周圍空氣吸收水分。 Increasing the water content of the top layers of the skin. Humectants are primarily hygroscopic agents drawing moisture from the surrounding air. |
皮膚調理劑-其他 SKIN CONDITIONING - MISCELLANEOUS |
透過降低剝落和恢復柔嫩,進而改善皮膚乾燥和(或)受損的外觀。 Enhancing the appearance of dry and/or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. |
皮膚調理劑-閉鎖 SKIN CONDITIONING - OCCLUSIVE |
延緩皮膚表面的水分蒸散。閉鎖劑通常為脂質,且傾向保留於皮膚表面並使肌膚的含水量增加。 Retarding the evaporation of water from the skin surface. Occlusives are generally lipids which tend to remain on the skin surface and thus increase the water content of skin. |
皮膚保護 SKIN PROTECTING |
幫助避免外界因子對皮膚造成有害的影響。 Helping to avoid harmful effects to the skin from external factors. |
流動性修飾 SLIP MODIFIER |
增加其他物質的流動性,但不與該物質產生化學反應。 Enhancing the flow properties of other ingredients without reacting chemically with them. |
平滑劑 SMOOTHING |
試圖透過減少粗糙或不規則來建立均勻的皮膚表面。 Seeking to achieve an even skin surface by decreasing roughness or irregularities. |
溶劑 SOLVENT |
溶解化妝品的其他成分。溶劑通常是液體(水溶性或非水溶性)。 Dissolving other components of cosmetics. Solvents are usually liquids (aqueous and nonaqueous). |
舒緩劑 SOOTHING |
減輕皮膚或頭皮的不適感。 Lightening discomfort of the skin or of the scalp. |
界面性修飾 SURFACE MODIFIER |
應用於化妝品其他成分,使其更加親水或疏水,亦或改變其物理/化學特性(在某些情況下,界面性修飾物質可能與被修飾物質形成共價鍵)。 Applied to other cosmetic components to make them more hydrophilic or hydrophobic, or to modify their physical/chemical properties (in some cases, surface modifiers may form a covalent bond with substrates). |
界面活性劑 SURFACTANT |
幫助不能相互混合的成分可以相互溶解或分散。界面活性劑也被稱為表面活性劑,因其可降低水的表面張力或不相容物質間界面張力。 Helping other ingredients that normally do not mix to dissolve or disperse in one another. Surfactants are also called a surface active agents as they lower the surface tension of water or reduce the interfacial tension between immiscible components. |
界面活性劑-清潔 SURFACTANT - CLEANSING |
弄濕身體表面、乳化或溶解油脂和懸浮髒汙(通常此類成分可賦予清潔產品起泡和產生泡沫的特性)。 Wetting body surfaces, emulsifying or solubilizing oils, and suspending soil (generally, such ingredients contribute to the foaming and lathering properties of cleansing products). |
界面活性劑-分散 SURFACTANT - DISPERSING |
幫助將不可溶的固體分散於液相中。 Helping distribute an insoluble solid in a liquid phase. |
界面活性劑-乳化 SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING |
透過降低物質的表面張力,幫助液體得以懸浮或分散於另一個液體中,而形成乳化。 Helping suspensions or dispersions of liquids in a second liquid by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified. |
界面活性劑-發泡 SURFACTANT - FOAM BOOSTING |
增加產生泡沫的能力和(或)通常可穩定泡沫。 Increasing foaming capacity and/or stabilize foams in general. |
界面活性劑-水助溶 SURFACTANT - HYDROTROPE |
增加其他界面活性劑的水溶性。 Enhancing the water solubility of another surfactant. |
界面活性劑-增溶 SURFACTANT - SOLUBILIZING |
幫助其他成分(溶質)可以分散於通常不溶於其中的介質中。 Helping another component (solute) to dissolve in a medium in which it is not normally soluble. |
助曬劑 TANNING |
於暴露或未暴露在紫外光的情況下使皮膚變黑。 Darkening the skin with or without exposure to UV. |
觸感增強劑 TONIC |
使皮膚或頭髮有更好的使用感覺。 Producing a feeling of well-being on skin and hair. |
紫外線吸收劑 UV ABSORBER |
保護化妝品產品不受紫外光的影響。 Protecting the cosmetic product from the effects of UV-light. |
防曬劑 UV FILTER |
專門或主要使化妝品產品透過吸收、反射或散射紫外線輻射的方式達到保護皮膚和(或)頭髮。。所有允許使用的防曬劑皆被正面表列於《化妝品法規》第1223/2009號的附件六之中。 Exclusively or mainly intended to protect the skin and/or hair against certain UV radiation by absorbing, reflecting or scattering UV radiation. All authorised UV filters are substances in the positive list of Annex VI to the Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009. |
黏度調節劑 VISCOSITY CONTROLLING |
增加或降低化妝品的黏度(厚度)。 Increasing or decreasing the viscosity (thickness) of cosmetics. |
如果有任何錯誤或指教歡迎在下面留言,我會盡量改進。
另外,如果有任何有興趣的化妝品相關主題也可以在下面留言,或許某天我會依此主題進行彙整。
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