從歐盟實施《化妝品產品資訊檔案》(簡稱PIF)後,接著是東協跟進。目前台灣於2019年5月30日通過了《化粧品產品資訊檔案管理辦法》,待2024年至2026年逐步實施。此外,對岸的中國也對於化妝品的監管有大幅度的修正,也是偏向歐盟的系統,目前法規已經通過並公布,待明年(2021年)元月正式施行。
如此,可以說一方面對於化妝品產品監管的模式做出了改變,另一方面則是更加重視化妝品的安全性這部分。

相應著PIF而來的,就是「安全資料簽署人員」(簡稱SA),主要是對化妝品的安全性提出完整的安全性評估報告。
這方面歐盟、東協已運作許多年了,但台灣才剛要開始,導致化妝品產業的相關人員對此感到無所適從。

在撰寫化妝品安全性評估報告時,很常參考一個網站 Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR)當中的資料。這個於1976年成立並由美國FDA所支持會議,提出了很多關於化妝品原料的安全性報告,並且是透過實驗數據以及專家們的討論後,才做出最終的安全性報導(safety report)。
這次,先將CIR從2012年至今年(2020年)所討論的化妝品成分原料作出整理,希望能讓大家(也包含我自己)在之後找尋資料時可以更方便。

CIR專家會議報告彙整

屆數

暫定文件

最終文件

155

Beta-Alanine Diacetic Acid and Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Cocosnucifera (Coconut)-Derived Ingredients

Polysilicone-11

 

Benzophenones1

Silicates1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 Amide1

Diacetone Alcohol1

Levulinic Acid and Sodium Levulinate1

Red Algae-Derived Ingredients1

Saccharide Humectants1

Ubiquinone Ingredients1

59. Methylisothiazolinone

168. Adenosine Ingredients

167. Ascorbyl Glucoside and Sodium Ascorbyl Glucoside

166. Caprylhydroxamic Acid

163. Scutellaria baicalensis-Dervied Ingredients

154

169. Adenosine [155]

168. Ascorbyl Glucoside [155]

166. Caprylhydroxamic Acid [155]

165. Glycerin Ethoxylates

164. Methicones

59. Methylisothiazolinone [155]

163. Scutellaria baicalensis [155]

162. Wheat

161. Honey

154. Palm

153. Pomegranate

160. Soy

159. Vanilla

153

161. Honey [154]

154. Palm Tree-derived Ingredients [154]

153. Pomegranate [154]

160. Soy [154]

159. Vanilla [154]

158. Alkyl Amide MIPA

157. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

156. Mannitol

155. MCI/MI

152

158. Alkyl Amide MIPA [153]

157. Capryloyl Salicylic Acid [153]

156. MannitolSorbitolXylitol [153]

155. MCI/MI [153]

154. Palm Tree [154]

153. Pomegranate [154]

147. Brown Algae

141. Parabens

152. Silica

151

141. Parabens [152]

152. Silica [152]

151. Alkanoyl Lactyl Lactate Salts

150. Alkoxylated Fatty Amides

149. Basic Red

123. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide

SqualaneSqualene

150

147. Brown Algae [152]

148. Benzyl Salicylate

146. Fatty Acids & Fatty Acid Salts

145. Salicylic Acid and Salicylates

149. Titanium Complexes

149

151. Alkanoyl Lactyl Lactate Salts [151]

150. Alkoxylated Fatty Amides [151]

149. Basic Red 76 [151]

148. Benzyl Salicylate [150]

147. Brown Algae [152]

146. Fatty Acids & Fatty Acid Salts [150]

145. Salicylic Acid [150]

144. Acrylates Copolymer

143. Hydroxyethyl Urea

142. Methylxanthines

139. Vinylpyrolidone Polymers

148

144. Acrylates Copolymers [149]

143. Hydroxyethyl Urea [149]

142. Methylxanthines [149]

141. Parabens [152]

140. Titanium Complexes [150]

139. Vinylpyrrolidone Polymers [149]

138. Dialkyl Dimer Dilinoleates

132. Ginkgo Biloba

137. Hydrogen Peroxide

136. Polyfluorinated Polymers

135. Polyol Phosphates

147

138. Dialkyl Dimer Dilinoleates [148]

132. Ginkgo Biloba [148]

137. Hydrogen Peroxide [148]

136. Polyfluorinated Polymers [148]

135. Polyol phosphates [148]

134. Salicylates

133. Eucalyptus globulus

131. Triphenyl Phosphate

146

133. Eucalypus Globulus [147]

132. Ginkgo Biloba [148]

131. Triphenyl Phosphate [147]

116. Alkane Diols

129. Malic Acid

125. Peppermint

Sultaines

128. Witch Hazel

127. Zinc Salts

145

116. Alkane Diols [146]

130. Alkyl Sultaines

129. Malic Acid and Sodium Malate [146]

125. Mentha piperita (Peppermint) [146]

128. Witch hazel [146]

127. Zinc Salts [146]

126. Ammonia & Ammonium Hydroxide

124. Panthenol

119. Persulfates

117. Polysilsesquioxanes

122. Triglycerides

144

116. Alkane Diols [146]

126. Ammonia and Ammonium Hydroxide [145]

125. Mentha piperita (Peppermint) [146]

124. Panthenol [145]

123. Polyaminopropyl Biguanide [151]

122. Triglycerides [145]

114. Humulus Lupulus (Hops)

115. Bovine Milk Proteins & Protein Derivatives

120. Monoalkylglycol Dialkyl Acid Esters

118. Plant-Derived Proteins and Peptides

113. Polyurethanes

105. Shea

121. Skin and Connective Tissue-Derived Proteins and Peptides

143

121. Ectodermal-Derived Proteins and Peptides [144]

120. Monoalkylglycol Dialkyl Acid Esters [144]

119. Persulfates [145]

118. Plant-Derived Proteins and Peptides [144]

117. Polysilsesquioxanes [145]

111. Ethers and esters of ascorbic acid

110. Hydroxyethyl-3,4-104. Methylenedioxyaniline HCl

142

116. Alkane Diols [146]

115. Bovine Milk Proteins [144]

105. Butyrospermum parkii (Shea) [144]

114. Humulus Lupulus (Hops) [144]

113. Polyurethanes [144]

109. Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers

112. Butyl Polyoxyalkylene Ethers

108. Etidronic Acid and Salts of Etidronic Acid

107. Hydroflurocarbon 152a

106. Rosa canina-derived Ingredients

141

112. Butyl Polyoxyalkylene Ethers [142]

111. Ethers and Esters of Ascorbic Acid [143]

110. Hydroxyethyl-3,4-Methylenedioxyaniline HCl [143]

104. Acid Violet 43

103. Alkoxyl Alkyl Silanes

96. Carbonate Salts

102. Citrus Flower and Leaf

100. Citrus Plant and Seed

99. Dialkyl Carbonates

98. PEG Propylene Glycol Derivatives

97. Saccharide Esters

140

109. Acryloyldimethyltaurate Polymers [142]

102. Citrus Flower and Leaf [141]

100. Citrus Plant and Seed [141]

108. Etidronic Acid [142]

107. Hydrofluorocarbon-152a [142]

106. Rosa Canina [142]

105. Shea [144]

101. Citrus Peels

95. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower)

93. Phosphoric Acid

91. Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters

Sarcosines

87. Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymers

139

104. Acid Violet 43 [141]

103. Alkoxyl Alkyl Silanes[141]

102. Citrus Flower and Leaf[141]

101. Citrus Peels [140]

100. Citrus Plant and Seed [141]

99. Dialkyl Carbonates [141]

98. PEG Propylene Glycol Esters [141]

97. Saccharide Esters [141]

96. Simple Carbonate Salts [141]

43. Chamomilla Recutita

90. Hexamethylene Diisocyanate (HDI) Polymers

94. Keratin

92. Sodium Sulfate

138

43. Chamomilla Recutita

Fatty Acyl Sarcosines [140]

90. HDI Polymers [139]

95. Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) [140]

94. Keratin [139]

93. Phosphoric Acid & Simple Salts [140]

92. Sodium Sulfate [139]

87. Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymers [140]

91. Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters [140]

86. Alkonium Clays

84. Apple-Derived

89. 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate (hair dye)

88. Polymerized Tetramethylcyclotetrasiloxanes

137

86. Alkonium Clays [138]

84. Apple-Derived Ingredients [138]

90. HDI Polymers [139]

89. 1-Hydroxyethyl 4,5-Diamino Pyrazole Sulfate (hair dye) [138]

88. Polymerized Tetramethylcyclotetrasiloxanes [138]

87. Trimellitic Anhydride Copolymers [140]

85. Alkyl Taurate Amides and Taurate Salts

80. Citrus Fruits

83. Inorganic Hydroxides

82. Monoglyceryl Monoesters

79. Nonoxynols

81. Silk Proteins

136

86. Alkonium Clays [138]

85. Alkyl Taurate Amides and Taurate Salts [137]

84. Apple-derived Ingredients [138]

83. Inorganic Hydroxides [137]

82. Monoglyceryl Monoesters [137]

79. Nonoxynols [137]

81. Silk [137]

78. Polysaccharide Gums

77. Soy Proteins and Peptides

76. Trialkyl Trimellitates

135

80. Citrus Fruit [137]

79. Nonoxynols [137]

78. Polysaccharide Gums [136]

77. Soy Proteins and Soy Peptides [136]

76. Trialkyl Trimellitates [136]

75. Centella Asiatica

69. PEGs Cocamine

74. Polyenes

73. Polysorbates

134

75. Centella Asiatica-Derived Ingredients [135]

69. PEGs Cocamines [135]

74. Polyenes [135]

73. Polysorbates [135]

72. Ceramides

71. Lecithin

70. PEG Diesters

68. Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate

133

72. Ceramides [134]

71. Lecithin & other Phosphoglycerides [134]

70. PEG Diesters [134]

69. PEGs Cocamine [135]

68. Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol Sulfonate [134]

67. Avena Sativa

66. Glycerin

54. Hydroquinone

65. PCA

64. Pegylated Alkyl Glycerides

51. p-Hydroxyanisole

63. Polysiloxanes

62. Propylene Glycol Esters

61. Sorbitan Esters

132

67. Avena sativa [133]

66. Glycerin [133]

54. Hydroquinone [133]

51. p-Hydroxyanisole [133]

65. PCA (2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid) [133]

64. PEGylated Alkyl Glycerides [133]

63. Polysiloxanes [133]

62. Propylene Glycol Esters [133]

61. Sorbitan Esters [133]

60. Alkyl Phosphates

2-Amino-3-Hydroxypyridine (hair dye)

56. Camellia Sinensis

Citrus-Derived Peel Oils

59. Methylisothiazolinone

58. Styrene Copolymers

131

60. Alkyl Phosphates

2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine (hair dye) [132]

56. Camellia Sinensis [132]

Citrus-Derived Peel Oils

54. Hydroquinone [133]

51. p-Hydroxyanisole [133]

59. Methylisothiazolinone [132]

58. Styrenes [132]

57. Barium Sulfate

55. Fatty Acid Amidopropyl Dimethylamines

41. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein and Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten

53. Magnesium Sulfate

52. PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate

47. Rosmarinus

50. Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, their Metal Salts and Fatty Acyl Derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

130

57. Barium Sulfate [131]

56. Camellia Sinensis [132]

55. Fatty Acid Amidopropyl Dimethylamines [131]

41. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein & Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten [131]

54. Hydroquinone [133]

53. Magnesium Sulfate [131]

52. PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate [131]

51. p-Hydroxyanisole [133]

47. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) [131]

50. Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-12, their Metal Salts and Fatty Acyl Derivatives, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 [131]

49. Alkyl Betaines

Monosaccharides, Disaccharides & Related Ingredients

48. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

46. Tocopherols & Tocotrienols

129

49. Alkyl Betaines

Monosaccharides, Disaccharides and Related Ingredients [130]

48. Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate [130]

47. Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) [131]

46. Tocopherols and Tocotrienols [130]

39. Achillea Millefolium-Derived Ingredients

37. Alumina & Aluminum Hydroxide

45. Amino Acid Alkyl Amides

44. Anthemis Nobilis-Derived Ingredients

43. Chamomilla Recutita-Derived Ingredients

42. Formic Acid and Sodium Formate

40. Phytosterols

128

39. Achillea Millefolium-Derived Ingredients [129]

45. Amino Acid Alkyl Amides [129]

44. Anthemis Nobilis-Derived Ingredients [129]

43. Chamomilla Recutita-Derived Ingredients [129]

42. Formic Acid and Sodium Formate [129]

41. Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein & Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten [131]

40. Phytosterols [129]

38. Alkyl PEG/PPG Ethers

36. Dialkyl Sulfosuccinate Salts

35. Hydroxypropyl Bis(N-Hydroxyethyl-p-Phenylenediamine) HCl (hair dye)

34. Isethionate Salts

24. Methyl Glucose Polyethers and Esters

33. Polyquaternium 22 & 39

32. Tromethamine

127

39. Achillea Millefolium-Derived Ingredients

38. Alkyl PEG/PPG Ethers [129]

37. Alumina and Aluminum Hydroxide [129]

36. Dialkyl Sulfosuccinate Salts [128]

35. Hydroxypropyl Bis(N-Hydroxyethyl-p-Phenylenediamine) HCl (hair dye) [128]

34. Isethionate Salts [128]

25. Methyl Glucose Polyethers & Esters [128]

33. Polyquaternium-22 and Polyquaternium-39 [128]

32. Tromethamine [128]

31. Animal- and Plant-Derived Amino Acids

30. Boron Nitride

25. Hypericum Perforatum

29. Nitrocellulose and Collodion

126

31. Animal- and Plant- Derived Amino Acids [127]

30. Boron Nitride [127]

24. Methyl Glucose Polyethers and Esters [128]

29. Nitrocellulose [127]

28. Alkyl Esters

27. Alkyl Ethylhexanoates

26. 6-Hydroxyindole

23. Modified Terephthalate Polymers

22. Nylon

21. Talc

125

28. Alkyl Esters [126]

27. Alkyl Ethylhexanoates [126]

26. 6-Hydroxyindole [126]

25. Hypericum Perforatum-Derived Ingredients [127]

24. Methyl Glucose Polyethers and Esters [128]

23. Modified Terephthalate Polymers [126]

22. Nylon [126]

21. Talc [126]

20. PEGylated Oils

19. Tin(IV) Oxide

124

20. PEGylated Oils [125]

19. Tin(IV) Oxide [125]

9. α-Amino Acids

14. Dimethicone Crosspolymers

11. Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1

18. Borosilicate Glasses

10. Chlorphenesin

15. Diakyl Malates

12. Microbial Polysaccharides

17. Panax (spp) Root-Derived Ingredients

16. Polyether Lanolins

13. Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients

123

18. Borosilicate Glasses [124]

17. Panax spp. Root-Derived Ingredients [124]

16. Polyether Lanolins [124]

15. Dialkyl Malates [124]

14. Dimethicone Crosspolymers [124]

13. Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Derived Ingredients [124]

12. Microbial Polysaccharide Gums [124]

11. Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipates [124]

10. Chlorphenesin [124]

9. α Amino Acids [124]

8. Cucumis Sativus

7. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

122

8. Cucumis sativus (cucumber) derived ingredients [123]

7. Synthetic Fluorphlogopite [123]

6. Alkyl PEG sulfosuccinates

5. Ammonium hectorites

4. Citric acid group

2. Ethanolamine and ethanolamine salts

3. Ethanolamides

1. Galactomannans

121

6. Alkyl PEG Sulfosuccinates [122]

5. Ammonium Hectorite Ingredients [122]

4. Citric Acid, Inorganic Citrate Salts and Alkyl Citrate Esters [122]

3. Ethanolamides [122]

2. Ethanolamine and Ethanolamine Salts [122]

1. Galactomannans [122]

Alkyl Glyceryl Ethers

 

2-Amino-4-Hydroxyethylaminoanisole

 

Decyl Glucosides

 

Lauriminodipropionic Acid

 

Pentarylthityl Tetraesters

120

 

Crosslinked Alkyl Acrylates

註1:第155屆會議有多提出草稿文件,但此先編入暫時文件中
註2:原料前的編號主要依據暫訂文件中的順序作編號,以利對照何時成為最終文件
註3:暫訂文件中的原料後方編號為成為最終文件的會議屆數

參考資料來源:CIR Past Panel Meeting

如果仔細看的話,可以發現有些原料可能經過多次的修改與討論才成了最終文件,甚至有一、兩個原料是有發佈最終文件後,又再重新討論並重新發佈。而這些原料也表示安全評估人員在評估安全性時,特別需要注意的。
同時這也表示,安全性資料是與時俱進的,所以也要實時的更新作為評估依據的資料,才不會做出了錯誤的報告。

以上資料為彙整CIR網站中的資料,如有錯誤歡迎指出以利改正。
以上論述為個人觀點,不具任何代表性。


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